Ueno Park

If this picture was taken at this time of the year, the shades of green you see would've been shades of pink. It was taken 5 months ago in Ueno Park, the most popular public park in Japan,  famous for its Sakura trees. It is also home to many cultural facilities and major museums. During my travel planning stage, I made sure to include Japan's national museums in my itinerary, I set aside a full day in Ueno Park. Little did I know that a day would not be enough.

The park is easily accessible, only a five-minute walk from Ueno station and since it's a major tourist destination, you won't have to worry about getting lost. There are signages everywhere to guide you, plus, most of the people are headed there. Feeling like a cultured person, I intended to visit 3 musems - the Tokyo National Museum, National Museum of Nature and Science, and the National Museum of Western Art. There was a slight change of plans though.

Naturally, I am against the captivity of wild animals for recreational purposes, that includes zoos and marine parks. Ueno Zoo came up many times when I researched Ueno Park, but I always ignore it. I was firm to keep it out from my itinerary, but... some things are really easier said than done. The temptation and curiosity to see a Panda in person was just too much for me. There were images of Panda all over Ueno, it's like the official mascot of the park. It also didn't help to pass through the zoo on my way to the museums. A war went through my head. I wanted to see a Panda in the wild, but there's not a chance that I'd be going to China anytime soon, and who knows, maybe never. I am still human, flawed and a slave to my desires. I thought of every possible excuse - I could use this experience for future research, and whatever I observe, I could use to educate people. Eventually I gave in, guilt ridden and remorseful, I bought a ticket to the zoo and made my way in.

The Ueno Zoological Gardens opened in 1882, making it Japan's oldest zoo. It covers approximately 14 hectares and houses 3000 animals of 500 different species, but the most popular, without a doubt, the superstar of park, are the two giant Panda from China, Lili and Shinshin.

I can't say I'm horrified by the sight of the animals behind the glass, I don't exactly sense inhumane treatment here. In fact, they seem to be in great shape but I still find it unfair to be taken from your natural home. I was uncomfortable throughout the zoo visit.

The saddest sight I saw  was the lone Polar bear. Its holding area is nothing close to the Arctic habitat. The water may be ice cold, but those white mass are concrete not ice. I looked around for a while but it didn't take long for the guilt to consume me. I didn't stay long to check out all the animals. I ate my lunch and headed to my next destination.

The Tokyo National Museum (東京国立博物館 Tōkyō Kokuritsu Hakubutsukan?), or TNM, established in 1872, is the oldest Japanese national museum, and the largest art museum in Japan. The museum collects, houses, and preserves a comprehensive collection of art works and archaeological objects of Asia, focusing on Japan. The museum holds over 110,000 objects, which includes 87 Japanese National Treasure holdings and 610 Important Cultural Property holdings (as of July 2005). The museum also conducts research and organizes educational events related to its collection (from Wikipedia).

I didn't get a full access to the museum, special exhibits will cost me more, the regular admission covers the highlights of Japanese history and culture while exploring the chronological development of Japanese art. It pretty much has anything you'd expect in a national museum - paintings, scrolls, pottery, traditional clothes, military uniforms, weapons, and any historical artifacts you can think of.

can you find Kidd?

the Tale of Genji manuscript, dated 13th-16th century

Edo Era Fashion

Okubo-san!

Bust of a Japanese Lady (I suppose the pun was intended)

    

  

My favorite section is the gallery of national treasures. The Japanese government designates artworks and other precious objects as Important Cultural Property in order to protect them. Those of superior quality and cultural value are designated as National Treasure. Unsurprisingly, the exhibits in this gallery cannot be photographed. This should give you an idea:

I was actually hoping to see the three Imperial Regalia - the scared sword, mirror and jewel (Yuyu Hakusho reference here hehe). Now I realize how stupid I was to hope, after all, these are the most sacred and supposedly most ancient artifacts in Japanese history. In fact, they are kept under close guard in the strictest of secrecy, hidden in shrines far away from each other in diverse parts of Japan and are only brought together for the enthronement ceremonies of a new Emperor. In fact, they are kept in such strict and reverent isolation that, at various times, some people have wondered if they actually even exist.

I wish I have a creative way of giving a blow by blow account of what I saw here, but all I can say is, everything is super impressive. I always find it humbling to be in a room full of ancient artifacts. If you're a Japanophile, you definitely have to include this in your bucket list.

1:1 scale replica of a Blue Whale

My next destination was the super awesome National Museum of Nature of Science. The museum has two buildings to separate two main galleries. The Global Gallery features exhibit on the evolution of Earth and its inhabitants, along with the history of the intelligent thought in humans. The Japan Gallery features nature and history of Japanese Islands and contributions of Japanese in science and technology.

    

    

I didn't get to see the famous Hachiko statue in Shibuya, but I did see the real and taxidermed Hachiko

Karakuri, the early foundation of Japanese robotics

The vast exhibit of everything about science and nature here was overwhelming. I should have assigned a separate day for this one, it was impossible for me to enjoy everything with the little time I had left. I was there until closing time but still I missed some galleries. I was supposed to participate in the star gazing activity, I've always wanted to experience watching the celestial scenery using huge telescopes, but the sky was unkind that night. The museum had to cancel it because of poor visibility.

My favorite experience was the Theater 360. If planetarium screenings amaze you, this one will blow your mind! The name is self explanatory, a movie theater in sperical 3D,  a movie experience in which the viewer is surrounded on all sides by a seamless sphere of video and sound. It's definitely so much better than watching Imax 3D. The only thing is, you have to watch standing in bridge platform. Each movie lasts 10 minutes, they show 2 films for every admission. At the time, they showed "The Marine Food Chain",  which explains the flow of energy from the sun to the Blue Fin Tuna, and  "Deep Quest into the Inside of the Earth", basically explores the Earth's amazing interior.

The only thing that disappointed me-- it was narrated in Japanese WITHOUT English subtitle. The visuals will pretty much give you an idea what it's all about but it would still be better to get into details. The whole museum, in fact, seems to target Japanese visitors. The exhibit's descriptions has no English translation. I hope it's something they could improve on to attract non-Japanese speaking foreigners.

When I left the museum, I couldn't help feeling sad. The Philippine's lack of public facilities to foster interest in scientific studies among the youth is just one of the many frustrations I have as hopeful patriot. The Mind Musem is too expensive and while it boasts to be a "world class science museum", it is nothing compared Japan's Museum of Nature and Science.

The three destinations I mentioned above have an admission fee of Y600, foreign tourists can enjoy Y120 discount, but if you're super tight on budget, Ueno Park is still a great destination for cultural exploration. Aside from the amazing architecture of facilities surrounding the park, there are shrines, gardens, street music performance and possibly more. These things you can enjoy for free.

Hanazono Inari Jinja

All in all, Ueno Park was a great experience, definitely worth a second visit. Next time, I'll come in spring to enjoy the spectacular Hanami.

Kidd's Top 3 Tokyo Spots (Part 2 of 2)

Ghibli Museum

You know when they say "save the best for last"? Well, there's a reason why I put Ghibli Museum on the last of the list. I am a huge fan of Hayao Miyazaki and Studio Ghibli, it was such a fulfillment to finally come here. I can't remember how long have I been looking at pictures and videos on the internet before even coming. A friend told me that I'm gonna miss the "surprise factor" and I didn't care, still the feeling I felt when I made it inside the museum is something I can't explain. It was magical.

I know Totoro is the superstar here, but can you find the soot balls?

It was probably, no, definitely my favorite part of the trip, that even though this is a compilation of my trip's highlights, I decided this one should get a separate post.

The entrance door of the museum

Let me just say, for one thing, getting a ticket to the museum is not easy for somebody living in the Philippines who has no close friend or relative in Japan. It's not sold in the museum, you have to purchase it on a kiosk called Loppi at Lawson combini (only in Japan). I thought of getting one when I get to Japan but the museum is very popular, it limits 200 visitors a day, I probably won't get a slot for the time I'm staying if I do that. I could make it easier by joining another tour but it's way more expensive and I didn't like my visit to be time-bounded so I looked for other options. I tried to ask the staff of the hotel I booked if it's possible to buy a ticket on my behalf and I'll just pay when I get there. They politely decline as it is something beyond what they can do. Thank God for the internet, I found a better option -- a shopping agent! Bridge.Jpn offers a proxy buying service in Japan, they bought the ticket for me for a fee but still a lot cheaper than joining a tour. I asked them to send the ticket to my hotel then I picked it up when I checked in. You don't get the actual ticket by the way, instead you get a reservation ticket, when you get to the museum, you hand it to the entrance counter then they'll give you the actual ticket. The complexity of the ticket procurement process was worth it, the ticket itself is a keepsake. It has frames of an animation film as ornament, lucky me, I got one from my favorite anime film!

I remember this scene

Photography inside the museum is prohibited and I am not sorry for this policy. The principle behind is for one to enjoy the experience through eyes and senses rather that a camera's lenses. To take the unique experience as a special memory not even a camera would capture.  I have so much respect for Miyazaki I gladly abide the rules.  It's okay if I can't take images with me, because I'll definitely see it again.

The building and the interior of the museum was designed by Hayao Miyazaki himself using drawn storyboards, and I know he's a genius, but oh my God, when I think about the interior and the landscape of the museum, I have no words. Just like his films, there's a strong European architecture influence. Everything in the museum is intricately decorated, you know when I say that Japanese put art into everything, well, this one is taking that notion to the next level. I don't know if I have stressed this enough but I have no words, that's how amazing this place is. And let me tell you, I've never seen a more beautiful and elegant toilet in my life.

The first floor showcased different animation techniques. Be prepared to be enchanted and get some goosebumps. I looked at the display and suddenly I understood why I prefer the traditional animation than CG animation. The gallery is graced with Joe Hisaishi's amazing music. It really gave me that feeling of being transported in another world. Some displays are interactive, child and adults alike are welcome to play. It was so fun, it would surely bring out the child in you. The Saturn Theater features Ghibli short films, you can only watch once, the film I saw was Hoshi Wo Katta Hi. My only dilemma here was the absence of subtitle. I am not that fluent in Nihonggo. I did get the context of the film through the scenes and few familiar words I caught, but I still would want to understand everything.

The second floor features a mock-up animation studio to show how Ghibli animators work, this is also the part where artworks of Studio Ghibli films are exhibited. Another wing of the second floor is for the special exhibition. This year they are featuring "The Lens at Work In the Ghibli Forest". Basically it's a showcase of functions of lens and the magic they create. I was so fascinated and inspired by it, I started collecting small viewfinder toys (not to mention I own a view master and a stereoscope prior to this trip).

The third floor has the Museum Cafe, Mamma Aiuto (souvenir shop), Trihawk reading room/bookstore and surprise, surprise, the Tonari no Totoro catbus. It's still inside the museum, but this I couldn't resist taking a photo. The only disappointing part here is, adults are not allowed to get in or play with it. Strictly for kids only. How unfair is that?!? I heard there's for-adult version of this one somewhere in Tokyo, but I didn't really have the time to check it.

I didn't get to taste the delicacies at the cafe because of the long queue, I didn't want to spend too much time waiting for my turn to buy food. But there was a hotdog and ice cream counter for express orders, I lifted all my diet restrictions for this trip so I settled with hotdog and ice cream.

They do allow pictures outside the building, The most photographed part of the museum is probably the robot soldier, the sculpture in the middle of lush vegetation is perfect. There's also a replica of Laputa's floating block. It was cool, but it's the not really the best spot to hang out on a sunny day.

The museum grounds view from the roof top

I didn't really anticipate spending too much and I was doing great the first 3 days until I entered Mamma Aiuto, the museum shop. A lot of Ghibli novelties here are not sold anywhere, Ebay sellers make a lot of money out of it, they mark up the prices too much. I figured, it's better to seize the opportunity to buy souvenirs. They were expensive but still cheaper than buying online. I bought cookies, t-shirt, a glow-in-the-dark Kodama flower vase, a stereoscope and of course a music box.

Princess Mononoke music box and a Kodama flower base (no flowers yet)

I wanted to stay longer but I had to go as it was getting late. I've already said it early on, but I'll say it again, this was my favorite experience in Japan, I highly recommend it to everyone, even if you are not a fan of Ghibli works or anime. As for me, I can't wait to go back!